The ‘Heide’ is so much more than a pretty drive in the woods; for thousands, it’s an Oregon pilgrimage

By JAY RYMESKI/For The Herald — With the spring thaw, a much-anticipated opening occurs in the Cascades. National Forest Service Road 19 sheds its winter blanket and beckons temerarious travelers to venture out on this wonderful stretch of wilderness road: the Aufderheide Scenic Byway. The southern end of the route starts in Westfir at the Office Bridge,  the longest covered bridge in Oregon.

The much-improved old logging road meanders along the bank of the North Fork of the Willamette Wild and Scenic River, which offers fishing, swimming and whitewater boating opportunities in a thousand-foot-deep gorge.

This first section is home to the remnants of the old incline railway used to lower logs from Huckleberry Flats down to the waiting train engine at river’s edge. From there, the timber was loaded for transport down to the Western Lumber Company mill at Westfir. There is still visible debris left from the rail bed structures, from the incline itself, to the trestle over Eighth Creek. The old incline railroad ties used to provide a “ladder-like” experience climbing the 72-degree pitch to the top. Much of the railroad infrastructure is long gone, fading into the rainforest regrowth on long-forgotten clear cuts. Look for interpretive signs to guide you through the rich history of the area.

The North Fork is aptly designated as wild and scenic. Spring flooding from Cascades’ snowmelt generates a powerful and dangerous whitewater run reserved for expert rafters and kayakers. Late summer provides some of the sweetest swimming holes on the planet. Fishing for rainbow and cutthroat trout is popular.

You’ll find camping, biking and hiking galore along a drive that can take from two hours to two weeks. Some locals have spent a lifetime exploring the Heide. Camping options to extend your stay encompass a range of comfort levels from backpacking ventures, and primitive boon-docking; to hosted sites with flush toilets. You can use the online reservation system to ensure a spot for the night at many of the campgrounds.

Near the summit and the old Box Canyon Guard Station Cabin, look for the monument to Robert Aufderheide, a visionary federal forester who understood the value of putting multi-use in natural resources. Be sure to hike the trail to Constitution Grove. This old-growth stand commemorates the 200th-anniversary signing of the Constitution. While ambling around the grove, note that these trees were here long before that sacred document ever existed.

Continuing north, the Heide descends into the South Fork of the McKenzie River valley. Also sharing the wild and scenic designation, its crystal waters tumble toward Cougar Reservoir through a steep and circuitous canyon. Hiking trails abound, including access to the French Pete Creek trail and the Three Sisters Wilderness. The reservoir area is home to boating, fishing and the famous Terwilliger (Cougar) Hot Springs — a great stop after a 60-mile bicycle grind over the mountain.

The Heide ultimately empties out onto the McKenzie Highway near Blue River. There you’ll find the disastrous remains of the whole community of Blue River, destroyed during the epic Holiday Farm wildfire of September 2020. (An earlier version of this article reported, erroneously, that the firestorm had destroyed the historic Belknap Bridge over the McKenzie River near Rainbow. The bridge survived undamaged.)

It’s another reminder that nature is wild and untamed, so when heading out, be prepared. The route is closed from November to April depending on the snowpack. With no cellular service for most of the trip, make sure you have emergency supplies in case of vehicle trouble or accidents. Have a full tank of fuel at the start and do not depend on GPS devices.

Always carry relevant maps for finding your way. The route is well marked, but signage can be confusing in spots. Be sure to let someone know your plan and route before you leave, particularly your anticipated time of return. Taking these precautions provides the peace of mind to thoroughly enjoy the Aufderheide experience.

Whether heading out to enjoy the spring bloom awakening from winter’s sleep, a sun-filled summer saunter along the water, or the bursting autumnal colors: plan, pack and go for a ride on the wild side, the Aufderheide awaits.

Jay Rymeski of Portland is a strategic communicator, writer/producer, media consultant and avid outdoorsman.

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